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Behind
this everyday brew lies a colorful and fascinating story that meanders
its way through the social and cultural history
of
many nations. According to ancient legend, tea was discovered by
chance by a Chinese Emperor in third millennium B.C. as some tea
leaves floated into his boiling pot of water from somewhere.
Whether this is fact or
fiction, we will never know. In fact, there was no written reference
to tea until the third century B.C., till a famous Chinese doctor
recommended it for increasing one's alertness. Most historians however
agree that tea was used in China long before this date.
Tea entered its 'golden
age' during the Tang Dynasty in the 7th century AD. Tea now entered
the age of rituals and traditions. No longer drunk simply as a
medicinal tonic, tea was taken as much for pleasure as for its
restorative powers. The preparation and service of the liquor
developed into an elaborate ceremony, while the cultivation and
processing of the leaf were tightly controlled.
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Tea
became important enough during this period for a group of merchants to
commission the writer, Lu Yu, to compile the first ever book on the
subject - Classic of Tea. All tea produced in China was originally
green. However,
with an increase in trade during the Ming Dynasty (A.D. 1368 - 1644),
the Chinese growers were challenged to preserve tea's delicate
qualities during its long journeys, as far afield as Europe. The
solution was the invention of new processing methods to make black and
flower-scented teas. Ming producers found that fermentation was able
to preserve tea leaves, making them suitable for the long overseas
journey. And though Europe's first taste of tea was green, the fashion
gradually changed to black as Chinese growers altered tea production
methods to suit the logistics of distant trade.
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When one
looks at Europe, one is not sure who was responsible for introducing
tea there - the Dutch or the Portuguese in the early seventeenth
century, for both nations were then actively trading in the China
Seas. The Portuguese shipped China teas to Lisbon, and from there the
Dutch East India Company carried goods on to Holland, France and
Germany.
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Tea's
fate in Britain took a lucky turn in 1662 when King Charles II married
a Portuguese princess. Britain's new queen was
addicted
to tea and carried with her some tea as part of her dowry. As word of
the new beverage spread, more and more people wished to try it. Soon
tea became Britain's most popular drink, replacing ale at break-fast
and gin at any other time of day. Tea also became an essential part of
people's entertainment outside the home.
Luxurious tea gardens appeared
all over the country, where people from all walks of life, including
royalty, could take fresh air, drink tea, and enjoy a variety of
entertainment. The British tradition of 'afternoon tea' is normally
ascribed to Anna, the Duchess of Bedford. She conceived the idea of
having tea around four or five in the afternoon to ward off the hunger
pangs between lunch and dinner. Soon all of fashionable London was
indulging in these afternoon gatherings to drink tea, eat sandwiches,
and exchange gossip and general conversation.
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As tea
consumption in Britain grew, the balance of payment turned in favour
of the Chinese. Britain came up with an answer to correct the
imbalance and trade in opium, which the Chinese wanted. But soon trade
in opium became a serious international issue, and to secure monopoly,
Britain declared war. China retaliated by placing an embargo on all
export of tea. The Opium Wars had begun.
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Its trade
with China cut off, Britain began to seek other locations for the
production of tea. Northern India was particularly promising due to
its climate and altitudes. It is here that in 1823 the British East
India Company's first crop was planted. Its first shipment of Assam
tea reached London fifteen years later, and the Company soon expanded
into other areas, most notably Darjeeling and the hills of Munnar in
Kerala. The Kannan Devan Tea was thus born.
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It was
inevitable that tea would find its way to North America along with the
settlers from Europe. All over the New World, tea was drunk in the
same elegant fashion as in Europe. In colonial America, tea and the
complimentary silver and porcelain were symbols of wealth and social
status. Even the less affluent families viewed the taking of tea as a
display of their good manners. The Boston Tea Party ended America's
liking for both the British and their tea. The origins of the trouble
lay in the passing of an Act of Parliament in 1767, which attempted to
tax the American colonies. Within
two years of its passing, most American ports were refusing to allow
any dutiable goods ashore, and when the British sent seven shiploads
of tea from London, feelings ran high. In New York and Philadelphia,
demonstrations forced the ships to turn back. In Boston, general
unrest over several weeks was followed by the boarding of the
Dartmouth by a band of men disguised as Indians, to cries of "Boston
harbor - a teapot tonight." In
the course of the next three hours, they threw 340 chests of tea
overboard. The British government's closure of Boston harbor and the
arrival of British troops on American soil market the beginning of the
War of Independence and America's coffee-drinking tradition. World War
II marked a final blow to America's affinity for fine teas.
Prior to the war, Americans
were well versed in the many varieties of tea. Imported exclusively in
the Orient, however, these teas became scarce during the war, and were
replaced with lower quality black tea from Argentina and other open
markets. Sadly, to this day, almost all tea consumed in the United
States is low-grade black.
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