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Local folklore has
it that Kerala was "reclaimed" from the seas by the warrior
sage Parasuraman by a throw of his battle-axe. Whatever
the truth behind the legend, the fact remains that Kerala is a land with
a huge necklace of canals, lagoons, lakes and rivers. These water bodies
are loosely known in the local parlance as the backwaters. This peculiar
landscape has had a distinct impact on the lifestyle of the people who
live along the banks of these backwaters. Kerala uniqueness lies in its
backwaters - found nowhere else in the world.
They form a beautiful and economically
viable feature of Kerala. The 41 West-flowing rivers of Kerala form a
backbone to this magnificent gift of nature. In the olden days, this water
highway stretched from the South of Kerala right up to the northernmost
part of the state. But siltation has closed many of these waterways now.
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There is
an ongoing project to reopen the old waterways, especially for the
tourism industry.The backwaters are a gateway f or
the visitor to see first hand the unhurried village life of rural
Kerala. The life is tough and traditional work is highly labour
intensive - a reason for the strong Communist sympathies of the rural
folks. Here one meets the people engaged in country boat building,
prawn cultivation, sand mining, coir manufacture, limestone collection
(by divers who are specialists in this field), rice farming and duck
rearing.
Such
unhurried life holds a certain fascination for the visitor to these
places. It is small wonder then, that this place is also a strong
magnet for the millions of tourists who come here from all over the
globe to encounter the unbelievable beauty of the place and the life
of the millions besides these backwaters.
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The
journey normally begins at Alapuzha, because of its large network of
canals. The journey winds through the small canals out into the
Vembanad Lake. This place is also called Kuttanad, once the rice bowl
of Kerala. Interestingly, this place is one of the few
places
below sea level. Using a clever system of dykes and bunds, cultivation
of paddy goes on.
To increase number of paddy crops, the
government had come up with an innovative idea to stop the inflow of
seawater - the Thaneermukam bund. This over the years has impeded the
free flow of water into and outside Kuttanad, leading to quite an
ecological problem. Politics around these parts revolve around these
environmental issues today
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One
beautiful backwater holiday destination is Kumarakom, which was "discovered"
barely a decade ago. The lagoon here, with its spectacular view and
fringed by coconut groves, has been featured in travel books all over
the world. A 14-acre bird sanctuary adds to the natural beauty of
Kumarakom. Water ducks, cuckoos, Siberian storks etc are
regular visitors here. Years ago, an Englishman Henry Baker had
constructed his bungalow here. This has now been taken over and
converted to heritage hotel by the Taj group and is one of the finest
around. Not far from here is another heritage resort - Coconut Lagoon
- also rated as one of the finest anywhere in the world by travel
writers.
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And not
surprisingly, the entrepreneurs among the people here have introduced
a spruced up version of the "kettuvallam"
(covered
canoes) with all the modern trappings of luxury. These "houseboats",
around 200 in all, are a world apart and unique to this region. With
the tourism flow into Kashmir at low ebb, these have to some extent
replaced the houseboats of the Dal Lake. These regal house boats run
by private tour operators do not come cheap, but the experience will
leave one with a true sense of the wonder that is Kerala.
Back to the backwater
cruise. You could go to Kollam through a maze of rivers, lakes and
lagoons. The sights are truly out of this world. The last part of the
trip is through the Kayamkulam Lake and then to the Ashtamudi Lake in
all its pristine glory.Or you could go the other way around and go to
Kochi, the commercial Capital of Kerala. This trip is also through
myriad lagoons, rivers and lakes.
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In the
monsoon months, these backwaters reverberate with the sound of the
traditional snake boat races, featuring the 130 feet long Chundan
boats. It is believed that these boats were designed for ancient Naval
battles fought in these backwaters. Local chieftains of the then
kingdoms of Vadakkumkoor (Northern Kingdom), Thekkumkoor (Southern
Kingdom) and Chempakassery all maintained their chundan boats.
Today these are still being used in another "battle",
when up to 16 of them, with over a hundred rowers each, vie for top
honours on the day of the races. The most important of these races is
the Nehru Trophy Boat Race held on the second Saturday of August.
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The
Aranmula boat race (see box) is more traditional and is associated
with temple festival there. The Aranmula Boat Festival The
Parthasarathy temple of Aranmula (Aranmula is famed for the metallic
mirror, used by royalty of
pre independent India.) is on the banks of the holy river Pamba. It is
believed that Lord Krishna and Balarama visited this place after the
battle of Kurukshetra. Legend
has it that since Balarama found a high ground to escape the
floodwaters and rested there, Lord Krishna in a fit of jealousy
created a more elevated spot and rested there. Hence this temple has
two sanctum sanctorums -one for Lord Krishna and one for Balarama at a
lower level. The boat carnival starts on the day of Thiruonam, the
most auspicious day of the Kerala festival, Onam.
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Besides
these backwaters of central Kerala, there are also other water bodies
elsewhere. They are Veli (in South Kerala), Kadinamkulam, Edava,
Anjengo, Madayara, Peravur, Ashtamudi, Kayamkulam, Kodungalur, Chetuva
and Valiyaparamba (in North Kerala).
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